How to Self Bind Any Rectangular Piece

"Faux" binding that turns perfect mitred corners...

Here's a technique that can be helpful when making mini quilts, mug rugs, baby blankets, placemats, etc. As long the item has straight edges with right angles, this "self binding" trick comes in handy when you don't want to bind your project the traditional way.

I actually first saw this done years ago, but for some reason, never gave it a try when I started making some basic quilt pieces. Perhaps my preference for making my own bias binding pushed this technique right out of my mind. (Or it could be that the need to use more fabric overall made the frugal choice for me!)

In any case, I'll demonstrate it today with a little mini mat that I made during my experimentation into curvy improv quilting.

The backing is a sample swatch from my zen jungle fabric.

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The first step is to cut the backing fabric to the right size. (Refer to the end of this post for the formula.)

According to your desired border size, you'll mark two sets of lines on the back of the fabric. For my example, I want the faux binding or border to be 3/8" wide. Therefore, the first line will be 3/8" from the edge and the other will be double that (3/8" x 2) — i.e., 3/4" — from the first line.

Mark two sets of lines around the perimeter of the rectangle...

Then, at each of the corners, make a diagonal line as shown in red.

Fold the corner for sewing...

Press a crease along the first line — the one that's 3/8" away from the edge in this case — all the way around. (This will facilitate the self binding part after the piece is turned right side out.) Then take each corner and fold it as shown, so that the line shown in red is folded on top of itself.

Sew right along that line at all four locations; note, do not sew past the line to the edge of the fabric.

Make some stitches at all four corners...

You'll end up with a tray shaped thing. It's almost done, but before turning it right side out, snip off the excess fabric at each corner as shown by the lines in green.

Clip the corners...

Very carefully poke out the corners so that the fabric is right side out. (Whatever tool you use, be gentle.)

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With a bit of manipulation, you should end up with a nicely mitered frame like so...

It's ready to showcase something...

Press well and it's ready to be used.

Since I was sort of working backwards with this demonstration, I had to trim my piece of improv quilting to fit inside the frame.

A frame for another of my curvy improv pieces...

Whatever piece it is that you're "binding", insert it, pin it in place and sew all the way around. (On larger items, it maybe wise to baste first.)

Pin and sew...

Of course, if you're doing this for a project that has a predetermined size, you'll want to cut your backing fabric to accommodate it and not so much the other way around as I've done here.

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As I stated at the beginning, the border that shows around this particular piece is 3/8" wide, but you can make it whatever you want.

Done!

Just use the following formula to plan the fabric requirements for your backing piece:

    (desired border width x 6) + width of project = total width, and 
    (desired border width x 6) + length of project = total length.

View of my zen doodles on the back...

For example, say you have a mini quilt 24" wide by 36" high that you want to bind in this fashion.

Suppose you want a 3/4" border around the finished item. The backing piece will need to be (3/4" x 6) + 24" = 28.5" wide by (3/4" x 6) + 36" = 40.5" high.

It's not an ice floe, but my Purl Bee Penguin finally has something to stand on...

A useful technique to know, right?

'Til next...