Grand Opening of New PDF Shop — Help Me Spread the Word

My new PDF shop hosted by Payhip...

Ask anyone about the initial startup of their endeavours and he or she will most likely agree that those who were supporters in the early days deserve something for their loyalty.

This blog has been in existence since December 2013, so some readers who were around in those early days have definitely moved on. But to anyone who is a regular reader here – whether from ten years ago or ten months ago – I like to offer the best value I can, and that includes access to more freebies.

A couple of posts ago, I gave an update on my (unsuccessful) search for a replacement for Makerist, which had hosted my PDF patterns for many years and had provided me with a seamless way to sell; i.e., I didn't have to be involved in each transaction. (They did take a commission, but then everyone does.)

Fellow blogger Daryl of Patchouli Moon Studio left a comment about her positive experience with Payhip, so I decided to give it another look.

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By another look, I mean that I had actually begun the setup of a Payhip shop many years ago. It was never completed because there was an issue with how they could or couldn't connect with PayPal. I don't recall specifics, but it was enough to stop me at the time. 

When I went back in to snoop around, it was obvious that Payhip was now offering quite a few perks for a relatively low take on sales. They also don't discriminate on providing features across their various plans; even the free level has access to the same functionality as the premium paid levels.

Apply instant coupon to this PDF...

One of the features that convinced me to go forward and move my entire shop over there was the ease with which coupon codes can be applied. I had previously stated that with the other platforms that I was selling on, adjusting prices is somewhat difficult. Armed with coupon codes, however, I can circumvent any restrictions and essentially offer a better deal right from here.

Which, I think – for the fact that readers here are showing direct appreciation and support for my blog content – it's important to give them the best deal.

Take a look above right. Makerist used to be where I sold my three dollar enhanced version of the Crossbody Sling Bag (pattern only) PDF. When I offered up the pattern to one of my previous platforms, it was stipulated that such a low price was not worth their while to list. (The solution was to list it at a higher price. 🤔) 

With Payhip offering easy instant coupons, I have regained the ability to offer that three dollar version to the "masses." The only disadvantage is that – for now anyway – there is a lack of traffic to the shop, as I don't do any sort of promotion myself.

But I long ago stated that this is not my J-O-B and I have no interest in putting a lot of effort into growing a brand. That said, Payhip also now offers a better marketplace than it used to and I'm intrigued about the opportunity to check out what it can do. In order to qualify for having items listed in their marketplace, however, a shop must first make $10 in sales (which is by no means a huge amount, but if no one knows the shop is out there, it can be a bit of a Catch-22) and the specific products (and shop) must first be approved by Payhip.

The advantage of having an item listed in the marketplace is that it becomes a more searchable entity than it otherwise would, simply sitting out there in a shop in nowheresville. For example, in the marketplace, I have the option to categorize (Crafts > Sewing > Patterns) and tag my products (bag sewing pattern) so that they'll show up appropriately when people look for them. 

Payhip is still way more focused on selling e-commerce platforms to small entrepreneurs than they are on marketing what those entrepreneurs sell, but they've made vast improvements towards offering more of a one-stop shop.

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Check out crafty classes at Creativebug! [affiliate link]

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If you've read this far, here is where you get rewarded with privileged info. 😆

I've listed several of my "free from the blog" PDFs with a two to three dollar price tag in my shop. (That's how it used to be when I had Makerist.) These are all still available to readers for free, provided you use the 100% off coupon found on their original blog posts here.

Example of Payhip coupon code found on my blog post about stacking CD baskets...

This way, readers who take the time to browse the blog can get additional tutorials in PDF format without paying for them. (And not just this way, there are also a number of older PDFs that are available only from links on their original blog pages; they're not listed in the shop at all.) 

Three other patterns that got their price boosted in order to be listed elsewhere have also been given the coupon treatment. These are the ones shown below that are currently priced at $4.50 in the shop; their coupons – which can be found on their respective blog post(s) – offer a $1.50 discount.

Look for discount coupons for these three items...

Oh, and all of this means that I no longer have to do my own order fulfillment. Payhip takes care of providing you with the download link instantly without my involvement. You no longer have to wait until I come home, crawl out of bed, or whatever, before getting your file. And that's definitely a win-win, even with the commission that gets taken by Payhip.

One last thing: if you click through to my shop, you'll see a banner across the top that reads "Grand Opening — Refer a Friend & You Both Get 25% Off — Refer More Friends and YOU Get Up to 100% Off!" (Click this link to see the details of how to get and use the referral code.)

I have this referral promo set for six items: the MyTie, the Diva, the Bodacious Bucket Bag, the Crossbody FOOLER Bag, the Retro Reticule and the Voila Vase. 

Refer enough friends and you could get one or more of the above patterns free!

The unique way in which the referral works is that you can stack your discount if you refer more than one friend who ends up buying that same item. That's right, refer two friends who buy and you can get 50% off your pattern; refer four or more friends who buy and you can stack your discounts to get a full 100% off your desired pattern — i.e., free!

Is there a catch? Urgency. The referral discount must be redeemed by each friend within a 24 hour period of receiving it. If it sounds like it could be a bit of fun for you, let me say that it would be a relatively painless way for my readers to help me get the word out about my shop. After all, I do still need to get some initial sales from there in order to have my PDFs qualified to be listed in the Payhip marketplace.😉

'Til next... 🇨🇦🍁

Quasi-Tutorial: Quick Access Card Holder

Just what my Eggsy Backpack needed...

I'm happy to report – for anyone who may have been concerned for me 😜 – that my Eggsy Backpack worked out quite well during my vacation. I had high hopes that it would, but one never knows how one might react to a new bag until it gets used.

For my part, I had been virtually attached at the hip to my crossbody sling bag for four years. Even though its smallish size precludes carrying much, I had gotten used to its distinctive elements of "convenience." Primarily, the flip up the flap to access credit cards in two seconds was something that I sorely missed in my new bag.

During the trip, I used one of my purse lanyards to keep my credit card within easy reach. It did the job adequately, but when I started using the backpack full time after I got home, I put cards in the gusset pocket. That wasn't entirely optimal as there was no way to separate the three cards that I needed to carry and I always worried that handling one would jeopardize the security of the others.

Meanwhile, I really liked the idea of the lanyard; it was just that the clear pocket at the end wasn't the best choice for storing credit cards (i.e., people probably shouldn't see credit cards hanging out in the open).

Attached to the inside of the bag and held in an exterior pocket...

Therefore, after one week of using my Eggsy full-time, I began to ruminate on a similar but better solution, the final result of which you see here.

You can call this a mini wallet, a card caddy, or a key chain; it's actually reminiscent of a biker wallet. It's a simple "sew" that can be put together in various ways depending on choice of materials.

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The underlying design of this card holder – one long strip of double sided fabric which is then folded and seamed as required – is one that I have used for at least two previous projects. Because this was meant to coordinate with my Eggsy, I fell back on the same two fabrics, which necessitated cutting two strips. (Thus can be made, however, with one single long strip – folded against itself – just as easily.) Depending on fabric, you may want to interface lightly with something like SF101; I didn't do anything with my selections as one was a cotton twill and the other was a high thread count quilting cotton.

In terms of hardware, I used a chain (taken from a $1 belt), a split ring, and a swivel clasp. (If you don't like the idea of a chain, go with ribbon or bias tape, like I did for this project and this.) After taking most of the photos for this post, I added a couple of rivets. You'll also need a small square (about 3/4") of hook and loop tape.

Fabric required for this quick access card holder...

The two large strips of fabric are 13.5" long x 2.75" wide*. (If using a single long strip, it should measure 26.5" x 2.75") The two smaller pieces are 2.5" long x 1" wide.

Start by making the tab at the top for the split ring. Take the two smaller pieces of fabric, put them right sides together and sew down the long edges. Turn right side out – be patient, it'll be tricky – press, fold in half and then press again.

Sew together the two small pieces to create the tab...

Center the folded tab against the right side of one of the short ends of the remaining strips of fabric and pin or clip. Lay the other strip right side down on top, pin and sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. (If using just one long strip of fabric, place the other end of it here.)

NOTE: ensure that the raw ends of the tab extend approximately 1/4" past the ends of the fabric, as shown below.

Sew together at both ends, encasing the tab at one end...

[By the way, it occurred to me after I finished this that I could have saved myself some time by using ribbon here. In that case, I would have doubled it – like I did for the hanging loop of the Eggsy itself – for extra strength and durability.]

Sew together the opposite ends of the two strips, creating a circular loop. (If you started with only a single strip of fabric, you won't need to sew a second seam.) Press open the two seams as best as you can, then open up the loop and rearrange it so that the two seams are stacked on top of each other.

Match both seams and pin, leaving a suitable turning gap (yellow pins above)... 

Pin as required. Sew along both sides with a small seam allowance (between 1/4" and 1/8"), being sure to leave a turning gap (about 2.5" should be sufficient).

Sew, leaving a turning gap...

Turn right side out and press well. Stitch in the ditch of the horizontal center seam.

Measure 2.25" from each end and fold them back onto the strip to create the pockets. Then fold the entire strip in half along the center seam. Verify that both sides are even and adjust as necessary; press well.

Pin the pockets in place.

Fold the two ends of the strip back onto itself to create the card pockets...

Check where the turning gap ended up; if it's within the folded area of one of the pockets, you can close it up later (simultaneously) when you stitch up the sides of the pockets. Otherwise, stitch it closed now.

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Check out crafty classes at Creativebug! [affiliate link]

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Use some double sided tape to stick the pieces of hook and loop tape into position on the pockets, centered about 1/2" away from the bottom edge. Unpin and unfold the pockets and sew the hook and loop tape in place. (Alternatively, you can probably make do with an adhesive hook and loop tape, which is what I did.)

View of interior...

Refold the ends to form pockets, pin and handstitch the sides closed. Why the hand sewing? To minimize width and to accommodate the cards tightly, I made this as narrow as possible. If you want to be able to sew these pocket edges by machine, cut the original fabric wider* (by at least a half inch).

A couple of days after taking the photos for this post, I went back and added two rivets to the top of the holder. They help the two sides "snap" back together and stay closed. (Rivets aren't the only way to achieve this; you can simply sew a line right across there, about a half inch down from the top.)

With rivets added...

I made this because I had gotten used to accessing my credit cards quickly and wanted a way to add that functionality to my new bag (and essentially to any bag I might carry). Those of you who still keep your cards in traditional wallets may not see any value in this project; however, it can serve other purposes. One thing that occurred to me is that transit users might find this handy for keeping a bus pass on a tether.

I'll finish off with a hardware sourcing tip: check your dollar stores for keychains. Along with the requisite split ring, some come with a matching swivel clasp, like this one here from Dollarama. For the chain, look into your closet or jewelry box for something to recycle. Otherwise, go to your nearest hardware store; they sell different types of chain by the foot (and that's about as much as you need for this project).

'Til next... 🇨🇦🍁

Quasi-Tutorial: (Kobo Clara) eReader Case

My new eReader case...

Happy spring, everyone! (And of course, happy fall to those of you on the "bottom" of the planet... 😉)

Up here, we've managed to weather another winter season without too many harsh days. There were a couple of weeks when I was reluctant to leave the house due to rutty streets turned super scary... my vehicle spun 180 degrees, three times in the same area of my neighbourhood within two days. If you've ever wondered what it would be like to go freestyling on a frozen lake, that's how it would be... except without the danger of banging into parked vehicles, lamp posts, fences or even people!

Anyway, with the arrival of a new season, it seemed a good time to release this post that's been in my drafts for months now... and it's about actual sewing! (One of my 2024 projects, to be exact.)

Almost exactly three years ago, I took on a self imposed challenge to make a new case for my Kobo eReader. It had been housed in a vinyl book style cover for the eight years that I'd had it, but with the cover showing signs of wear and tear, it was the perfect opportunity to "problem solve" a DIY solution.

I subsequently blogged about the process, with a two part post that began here.

At the time that I undertook the project, the Kobo Mini had already been discontinued. In April 2023, Kobo sent out a notice that it was among a handful of models that would no longer have continued software support. What that meant was that while I could still use it to read my existing books and books borrowed from my local library, I would be unable to load new purchases onto it.

Size comparison of old and new...

Fast forward a year and a half, and I make the decision to bite the bullet and purchase a new unit. I'm not a huge buyer of ebooks, but the inconvenience of not being able to use my device to read what I do buy just wasn't going to be acceptable in the long run.

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By a stroke of luck, Shoppers Drug Mart had a points promotion going on the week that I decided to buy, giving me back fifty dollars in points. (Most importantly – unlike some things at SDM – the actual price was not inflated; i.e., it was the same as I would have paid at any other retail outlet.)

My purchase was a new model for 2024, the Clara BW E Ink Carta 1300, spec'd not only as having the clearest text display that you can get, but also waterproof and repairable. It's only an inch larger than my old Mini, so it won't be much of an adjustment for me in terms of handling. The most significant part of the upgrade is that this one is lit; I no longer need to have a booklight with me when reading in bed at night. (Yay!)

My Kobo Mini case flanked by old Mini and new Clara...

My fabric choice for this project is a fairly recent addition to my small fabric stash. I know that I've said I will no longer be actively adding to my fabric supply, but I came upon this quite unexpectedly while browsing at a Dollarama. Four dollars for a whole yard of this black, white and red Emma & Mila print was something I couldn't pass up. (I believe this particular selection is called Field Carbon and it's from Camelot Fabrics. I've since seen it selling for up to $30 in a bundle of four.)

I've titled this post a quasi-tutorial but it may or may not be as complete as others I've provided in the past. (I'm out of practice!) It probably needs to be "consumed" along with the material from the original two posts, which offer more construction photos (a couple of which I've reproduced here). Still quite doable, I believe, for anyone interested in making one — which, if I recall correctly from last time, was not (m)any of you! 😜

Emma & Mila fabric from Dollarama...

That said, if you trace around the device, you can make this cover/case for a tablet as well, if you're not into eReaders. (Note that the measurements for the fabric harnesses will differ for devices of varying thickness.)

For those who actually have a Kobo Clara, you can use my template and be on your way. (Copy it onto cardstock for best results.) If you make your own template, be sure to measure the open area for the screen as well, and cut that part out.

Cutting

Cut the following using the outside perimeter of the template:

2 x Decor Bond (or equivalent medium weight fusible interfacing) for exterior side of front and back cover

2 x Peltex (single sided fusible, or equivalent) for interior side of front and back cover

2 x fusible fleece — cut these just under a 1/4" smaller all the way around (they provide the padding for the exterior side of the front and back cover, but they need to be smaller so that they don't add bulk to the seams)

4 x fabric A — cut these a generous 1/2" larger all the way around (the extra is needed to wrap around the above interfacing pieces)

FIGURE 1: The fabric wrapping process...

Cut the following per the entire template "frame" (i.e., also cut out the opening for the screen on these pieces):

2 x Peltex

1 x fabric B— cut a generous 1/4" larger all the way around (the frame is rather narrow, so you can't have too much fabric here)

Cut the following fabric/interfacing:

1 x 4" high by 2.75" wide fabric C for the spine — interface this piece with Decor Bond (or equivalent)

2 x 5" high by 1.75" wide fabric D for the two side harnesses

1 x 1.75" high by 1.75" wide fabric E for the bottom harness

Fabric Wrapping

Take two pieces of fabric A and wrap each of them around a piece of Peltex, securing with clips. Ensure that the fusible side is exposed so that the wrapped edges of the fabric can be adhered with a careful press of the iron. Set aside.

Take the pieces of fleece and center each of them on the remaining pieces of fabric A and fuse into place. Then wrap and clip the fabric pieces around the two pieces of Decor Bond, again with the fusible side exposed, so that the edges of the fabric can be adhered.

These four pieces will make up the cover of the case; pair a fleece-lined piece with a Peltex piece to form each half of the case, with the fleece side being the exterior. Use clips to keep these together for now, but do not fuse. (Use sticky notes as required to keep track of what side is up and what end is which if working with directional fabric.)

In Figure 1, you can see the results of all of this "fabric wrapping". The two pieces near the bottom are Decor Bond and Peltex wrapped with fabric A. The other two pieces shown in the top left corner are already clipped together and ready to be sewn.

FIGURE 2: Fabric wrapping completed...

The final bit of fabric wrapping that's required is for the top half of the frame piece that sits on top of the device. (Shown completed in Figure 2 above.) Take one of the Peltex frames and apply some fabric glue to the non-fusible side; center and place it on the wrong side of the corresponding piece of fabric B.

To facilitate wrapping from the inside of the frame, cut the fabric diagonally towards the corners as shown below in Figure 3 (taken from my old Kobo Mini case project).

FIGURE 3: Wrap the top part of the frame...

Finger press and clip as you go and then fuse the fabric onto the Peltex as best as you can. (Cut any excess fabric and/or use more glue if needed.)

FIGURE 4: Checking it for size...

Sewing

There are four elements that need to be sewn separately: the spine at the top of the case and the three harnesses that hold the frame in place on top of the eReader.

Take fabric C (spine piece) – which should be interfaced with Decor Bond – and fold it in half with right sides together. Stitch the two shorter ends together with a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn and press; set aside.

FIGURE 5: Securing the side and bottom harnesses...

Take the two fabric D pieces (the side harnesses) and fold them in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Stitch up the two short ends with a 1/4" seam allowance; turn and press.

Take the fabric E piece (bottom harness) and fold it in half, with right sides together. Stitch up the two sides; turn and press.

Sew the three harness pieces (along their raw edges) onto the fusible side of the remaining Peltex frame, centered appropriately as shown above in Figure 5.

Sewing & Assembling

Get the top half of the frame (the one that's been covered with fabric) and apply glue onto the back of it. Place it on top of the Peltex frame with the harness pieces attached and give the whole assembly a good press with a hot iron to set.

Now let's turn our attention back to the covers of this thing, which at this point are still just clipped together.

FIGURE 6: Attach the spine to the bottom half of the case...

Take the spine piece and insert the end with the raw edges between the Peltex and fleece layers at the top of what will be the bottom part of the cover. Ensure that it is centered left to right, sits straight and that it's embedded about 1/2" inside. (Give it a light fuse to set it in place if you want.)

Sew all the way around the perimeter of this entire piece with an approximate 1/8" seam allowance. In doing so, the spine will be secured in between the two layers as shown in Figure 6. If you're satisfied that everything is even, press with a hot iron to fuse it all together.

Standing up against front cover...

Now comes the most challenging part of this project: securing the ends of the harness pieces to the back cover. It's not just the last bit of sewing that's a bit tricky, it's also ensuring that the frame sits straight and even with the bottom cover once it's done. (Confession: I redid mine because I wasn't satisfied with my first attempt.)

Pins are your friends throughout this process, so make good use of them. The layers are thick and you won't be able to pin all the way through and up again, so aim just to poke into the Peltex. (Alternatively, you could hand baste first.)

Start with the easy one: the bottom harness (see green dashed line in Figure 7 below). The goal with all of the harnesses is to align their edges with the edge of the bottom cover and then sew alongside the existing seam line.

FIGURE 7: Securing the bottom harness...

Before continuing with one of the side harnesses, ensure that the frame is correctly aligned on top of the back cover; i.e., if you squish it down, all edges should be even.

At this time, you should also check for proper fit. Snug is better, so if it's loose, you may want to repin/resew. That being said, the notebook style design of this cover ensures that the device doesn't easily fall out.

FIGURE 8: The most difficult part of the project...

Once the first side harness is sewn on, repeat with the remaining side harness (Figure 8 above). At this point, there isn't a lot of "play" in how the frame can be shifted aside while you sew, so you'll just have to power through.

Empty, with cover folded back...

All that's left is to finish the front cover and attach it to this bottom assembly. Slip the exposed end of the spine between the two layers of the front cover – make sure you have it oriented correctly in terms of up/down, interior/exterior – and pin to secure. The exposed spine between the two panels should be just a hair under 1" for the Kobo Clara. (Check your device for proper fit.)

Once you've determined that the cover will close to your satisfaction, sew all the way around the perimeter with the same 1/8" seam allowance as you did for the back cover.

That's all there is to it!

Closed front cover...

If you compare the instructions – such as they were, since the original discussion wasn't meant as a tutorial – from the older posts about my original case for the Mini, you'll find discrepancies between those and what's here. All I can say is that what I did this time worked out fine.

As I indicated at the beginning of all this, you can easily trace around any device to create a template and make this project, but if you have a Kobo Clara, you can save time by downloading this template. It's not perfect, but ultimately serviceable. (NOTE: print at "Actual Size" to get the right dimensions.)

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Check out crafty classes at Creativebug! [affiliate link]

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There was one thing that I wanted to add to my case but forgot about along the way, since I was following along with my old "instructions", which didn't reference the need.

This particular eReader has its power button on the back, while my old one had its along the top edge. I now have to slide it out of the case to power it on/off.

Clockwise from top left: side view, top view, bottom view, side open view...

Now, that's not a big deal, all in all. But I had originally planned to carve out a hole in the Peltex on the back cover right where the power button sits, so that it could be pressed through the outer layer of fleece and Decor Bond. I figured they would be flexible enough to accommodate the pressure while not being in danger of wearing through.

Unfortunately, I didn't get to test that out, since I am not about to tear apart my case to add that feature. (I've now been using it for almost five months and having to slide the unit out a tad to turn it on hasn't bothered me.)

'Til next... 🇨🇦🍁

Celebrating a Decade of Pride & Prejudice Fabric

Pride & Prejudice Text fabric in sepia...

Exactly ten years ago, I created a set of fabric designs based on one of my favourite books. I uploaded them to Spoonflower with a little bit of hope that they would resonate with others. Little did I know at the time that doing so would open a door to a totally unexpected part of my sewing journey.

In the decade since, I have experienced the incredible honour of people purchasing the fabrics and making some absolutely awesome things out of them. (Check them out here and here.)

From bags to clothing, pencil cases to shoes (!), face masks to head bands, glasses cases to doggie jackets, and one very amazing regency styled hat that kicked it all off, my Pride and Prejudice fabrics have been rewarding beyond my wildest dreams.

It's why – as the ten year anniversary approached – I thought to myself, why haven't I added anything to this collection in such a long time?

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Five years ago, I did add some new selections. I came up with a version featuring navy, at the request of one of my customers who does a lot of sewing with reclaimed jeans.

What I didn't know then is that navy is a difficult colour to get right. The simple hex code that most commonly comes up on a search for navy turns out to be extremely purple when rendered on fabric. After Colleen and I shared a laugh over the results, I went back to the drawing board and searched for more "complex" hex codes to test, the renditions of which are shown below.

Second time's the charm...

These four ended up fitting her needs much better. Colleen even chose the set (one white on navy, one navy on white) that she liked best and coerced me to name them after her 😉 so that she would always know which ones they were. (For everyone else, all selections are still named with an actual hex code, and if anyone is especially curious, the second one above apparently renders as an especially dark shade of navy.)

A few weeks ago, I wondered why I never added my coordinating P&P design to this sub-collection. Better late than never, so here they are:

Navy collection now complete (image courtesy of Spoonflower)...

The first two use the same hex code (#14284A) for navy as the selections for Colleen's Fave; the third is a one-off, tone-on-tone selection that I simply call "denim".

You may find it interesting to know that I have never seen any of these navy selections in person. The original sampling process was done entirely by my customer and even though I've been tempted to buy some at various times, it has never come to fruition.

P&P in sepia (image courtesy of Spoonflower)...

When I came back to the design a few weeks ago to take another look, I decided that it likely wouldn't translate too well to other colour schemes, with perhaps one notable, vintage-y, exception: sepia.

Thus I arrived at the version shown at the top of this post. One of the coordinating P&P designs is shown at left. (There is another that is somewhat reversed with dark letters on a lighter background.)

With nothing more that I could add to the original collection, I turned my attention to a project that I actually started a couple of years ago, but never got around to finishing: a series of panels that can be turned into banners or wall hangings.

Getting them completed seemed a perfect way to celebrate the tenth anniversary of this fabric collection, so here are some selections featuring notable quotes from the novel that can be turned into wall hangings with some simple sewing.

P&P fat quarter panels (sepia)...

These are specifically designed to fit sideways on a fat quarter in Spoonflower's lightweight cotton twill. The fabric's 58" width allows for each to be featured as a 29" high by 18" wide panel. (Regular price is $15, but during any number of their regularly occurring sales, that could be reduced by up to 40%.)

Closeup view of the background on these panels (courtesy of Spoonflower)...

The background is actually a washed out sepia version of the P&P fabric, which features the first sentence of the novel under alternating "P" and "&" characters.

For those who prefer a darker background, I also have these same designs on a dark gray with white lettering.

P&P fat quarter panels (dark gray)...

As I demonstrated with my sports banners a few years ago, two of these panels can be sewn back to back to produce a double sided wall hanging.

Speaking of double, a third version features both of these quotes on one panel, augmented by some hand-drawn cut out hearts.

P&P dual quote fat quarter panel (sepia)...

Spoonflower used to sell wall hangings as part of their home decor line, but no longer. Perhaps they realized that crafters could easily sew their own for much less. Last time, I ordered the more expensive linen cotton canvas for my project, but with the lightweight cotton twill weighing in at 5.8 oz per square yard (versus 6.4 oz for the canvas), it's a good option for fewer dollars. And having worked with both, in my opinion, they have a similar hand.

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Check out crafty classes at Creativebug! [affiliate link]

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Finally, since I've had occasion to order Spoonflower's wallpaper in the past and know how versatile it can be, I decided to create a couple of P&P themed items in that format as well.

Print these on a wallpaper swatch for instant decorating power (image courtesy of Spoonflower...)

These can be printed on a 24" wide x 12" high peel and stick wallpaper swatch (regular price $9), cut into two, and then individually plastered on whatever surface you want... and they can be removed when you no longer feel the love.

I have them in both light and dark versions.

Peel and stick wallpaper is rental friendly! (image courtesy of Spoonflower...)

As I've stated, Spoonflower holds sales events on a pretty regular basis. (It just so happens that there's one – up to 25% off – this weekend on both fabric and wallpaper.) Whatever you need, you can likely catch a deal if you wait a bit. Oh and yes, for full disclosure, I do get a commission on any sales. 😊

To see all of the designs in my Pride and Prejudice collection, click here. To access wallpaper designs specifically, click here.

By the way, I heard recently that Joann Fabrics is closing down all of their stores. Will any of you feel the loss in a significant way?

'Til next... 🇨🇦🍁