|
| Collapsible Quilted Tabletop Christmas Tree.... |
Aptly timed in my case, since the weather is fully supporting winter. We've been well under normal temperatures for over two weeks and have had non-stop flurries for several days now. I feel like we just put away our snow shovels and here they come out again. :-(
But I'm sure you're less interested in my weather than today's tutorial, so....
But I'm sure you're less interested in my weather than today's tutorial, so....
Last fall, I came across a pattern for making a fabric Christmas tree called the Tabletop Tannebaum, by Poorhouse Quilt Design. The project was based on the use of a heat activated moldable batting by Bosal, a rather specific — not to mention pricey — requirement.
Over the past twelve months, I've had the project in the back of my mind, wondering how I could hack it so that 1) it doesn't really require a pattern, and 2) it costs less to execute in terms of materials.
No doubt you've seen the "puffy" version of Christmas trees that are made in essentially the same way. For some reason — maybe because I've seen some truly unfortunate looking ones — I'm not enamored of the stuffed variations. But I bring them up to suggest that if you've run across patterns for those types of trees, you can use those templates to make this one.
Otherwise, you can draw your own template.
After all, how hard is it to drawn your own Christmas tree outline, right?
Here's the funny part: it's not as easy as one might think. I mean, we've all drawn basic Christmas tree shapes in our youth, but I found it surprisingly challenging to draw half of one. Maybe it's just me, but I struggled for the better part of an hour trying to perfect my template.
Unless you draw a super huge tree, this project only requires three fat quarters, cut into six tree shapes per your template. (If you make your tree template about 12" wide x 12" high, you can fit all of it on a half yard cut of a non-directional printed fabric if you lay it out carefully.)
|
| This stands about 11" high and 11" wide... |
You'll need to interface three of the fabric pieces with fusible fleece and the other three with Decor Bond (or a similar medium weight fusible interfacing). Then add whatever embellishments you want to trim the tree. I went with gold and silver toned rivets and a snowflake "star" that I saved from a gift tag.
While I appreciate how heat activated moldable batting might help a fabric bowl or basket keep its shape, I was skeptical about it being needed for this style of tree. Rest assured that my interfacing recommendations will allow the tree to stand up, using what you likely already have on hand (or can get at a much lower cost).
1. Cut Fabric and Interfacing
You can use your template to cut both fabric and interfacing, as long as you understand that the sewn pieces will be slightly more difficult to turn right side out and the edges will be bulkier to topstitch. (I did mine this way.)
|
| Cut six tree shapes out of fabric... |
If you prefer, you can make a smaller template (by 1/4" all the way around) and use it to cut all your interfacing.
After cutting, separate your fabric pieces into three pairs that you'll be sewing together.
2. Attach Fusible Fleece
Pin fusible fleece to one piece of each pair of fabrics. (In my sample, I attached it to the red fabrics; it doesn't matter what you choose.) I say "pin" because it's easier to get the positioning correct if you've pinned it to the fabric. After a light pass with your iron, you can remove the pins and continue fusing.
|
| Pin fusible fleece to fabric... |
DO NOT fuse the Decor Bond onto the other pieces of fabric!
3. Sew Each Pair
Put each pair of fabric trees right sides together and place the Decor Bond — fusible side down — on top of the fabric piece that doesn't have the fleece attached. Pin and mark a turning gap along the bottom.
|
| Stack fabric pieces and remaining Decor Bond interfacing... |
Sew all around with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. (Ensure that the opening you leave is large enough for your hand to reach into; turning will be difficult otherwise.)
4. Trim Seam Allowances
Snip right to the sewing line — don't cut into the stitches, of course — at each inverted corner (as shown by the uppermost pin below).
|
| Trim inner and outer corners... |
Cut away the tips of the corners and then trim the seam allowances back by about half (except along the bottom).
|
| Trim seam allowances... |
5. Turn and Press
Turn right side out. Be sure you have the layers separated correctly: reach in between the two fabrics, not between the fabric and the Decor Bond. Poke out the corners carefully with your choice of tool.
|
| Turn and press... |
Press and steam well; when you do this, the Decor Bond will be fused onto the second piece of fabric. (This method of application ensures no wrinkling.) Pin turning gap closed.
6. Topstitch and Quilt
Topstich all around at just over 1/8" (4mm), closing the turning gap as you go.
|
| Topstitch and quilt... |
Quilt the completed panel in some manner, ideally starting at the middle on the bottom (since that spot will be the least noticeable when the tree is assembled).
|
| Close-up of quilting... |
I chose to do a modified "echo" quilting, matching the outline of the tree.
|
| Quilt them all the same or try something new on each... |
It's an easy and very forgiving way to quilt without marking the fabric, and there's no right or wrong way as you can choose to make your lines as close or as far apart as you want. (Note however, that the tighter you quilt, the stiffer the finished panel will be, so do try to quilt more rather than less.)
7. Assemble and Press
Stack your three panels in desired order and clip together securely. Ensure that all of the bottom edges are even, or your finished tree may not stand up properly.
If your sewing machine can handle it, stitch all the way down the center through all layers; otherwise sew by hand. Don't start right at the tip of the tree, put the presser foot down at a point where it is balanced and that should be fine. (Having the tip remain open offers more options to add a tree topper decoration.)
|
| Depending on how you allocate your fabric, your tree will look different from different angles... |
To finish, take your sewn tree to the iron and press the two outermost panels in half on top of themselves. Hit it with a good blast of steam and the tree should form sufficient creases to allow it to stand.
|
| Notice that all of the gold toned rivets are showing on the red fabric... |
8. Embellish and Trim
I believe that there are cordless strings of tiny lights that you can pick up at discount stores these days. If you want your tree to have lights, that's an option. Ric-rac as garland would also work.
For me, I wanted something elegant and simple, so it was gold and silver toned rivets. These are the smaller ones from my kit, which have negligible use, so I was happy to install them here.
It may never have occurred to you to do this, but you can put a gold stud with a silver cap and vice versa. That's what I did on the tree to get the gold showing on the red fabric and the silver showing on the grey fabric.
|
| Better view of the two-toned rivets... |
Speaking of fabrics, the ones here are part of the Lily and Loom Red Sky bundle that I purchased just before Bluprint closed down. I don't have any holiday themed fabric, but felt that these selections hit the mark.
What do you think? The inspiration Tabletop Tannebaum required six panels (i.e., twice as much fabric) that would have been difficult for most sewing machines to go through. And I'm not sure, but the use of the moldable batting may also render it impossible to fold flat for storage purposes. Like my hanging Christmas tree, this is easily put away once the season is over.
As a small and relatively unobtrusive item, this is perfect for gift-giving. (Note that it doesn't have to be about Christmas; it can just be a tree, which generally represents life and the world around you.) If you have older family members in long term care homes who are more difficult to visit these days, this would be a thoughtful reminder that you're thinking of them.
'Til next...
This looks so festive
ReplyDeleteand fun to make! I'll
have to try it, thank
you.
Carla from Utah
Looks like something my daughter, a new sewer, may enjoy making!
ReplyDeleteGood to hear! Best of luck on the project.
DeleteI tried your pattern and instructions tonight. Easy to follow and my 1st try turned out great! Way more economical that the 'other' pattern! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteGood for you! Yes, I like that "other" pattern but it's way too costly for my crafting budget. ;-)
Delete