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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query ribbon binding. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query ribbon binding. Sort by date Show all posts

Saturday, 30 October 2021

What's the Best Way to Attach Bias Binding?

Best Way to Attach Bias Binding
What's your preferred method of binding?
In my previous life as a sewer of clothing (from my teens to early twenties), I don't recall ever being required to attach binding to anything.

Therefore, my first experience with binding was when I made that controversial multi-zip organizer in 2015. Because the PDF was abso-fricken-lutely no help at all in terms of how to sew the binding, I had to look online for a similar project and ultimately did what was done for whatever it was that I found.

I eventually incorporated that same technique when I created my own pattern for sale.

But guess what? I don't do it that way any more. Why? It's not quite foolproof.




What is foolproof? Well, in my humble opinion, the way I now do it is fairly foolproof. But before I go there, let me illustrate a couple of not so foolproof methods of attaching binding. (Bias or otherwise; the former is required when you are binding something with curves. By the way, in all my examples here, I am referring to 1/2" double folded bias binding or tape.)

First, there's the "cheater" method.

how to attach bias binding
"Cheater" method of attaching binding... (this is my Travel Toiletry Tote)

The idea here is to wrap the unfinished edge without unfolding the (double folded) binding and then just sew around once. 

how to attach bias binding
While you can sew along one side nicely, the other side may be a bit "off"...

While this eliminates the step of going around a second time, the result won't be the best, particularly if what you're binding is thick. 

using ribbon as binding
Cheater method using ribbon as binding... (this is my Tablet Envelope)

That said, if you use this technique with ribbon like I've done above, it can work out fairly well.


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The second method is what I did with my own multi-zip organizer projects.

With the binding completely unfolded, one raw edge is lined up with the raw edge of whatever it is being bound. (Note: this should be the front side of whatever is being bound.)

how to attach bias binding
Common step 1 for attaching bias binding...

The binding is then sewn at just under a half inch (I like to use 3/8" or 1cm).

how to attach bias binding
Common step 2 for attaching bias binding...

The remainder of the binding is then refolded and wrapped around to the other side and secured. 

how to attach bias binding
Common step 3 for attaching bias binding...

The sewing part, however, is done from the original (right) side, stitching in the ditch.

how to attach bias binding
The "stitch in the ditch from the front" method...

If you're very good at this, this method does produce a tidy finish. If you're just moderately good, you may occasionally experience this on the opposite side...

how to attach bias binding
The other side of the binding may not always be secured with this method...
(this is my Tea Cozy)

Having part of your binding not sewn down is hardly optimal, but you can't control what you can't see and that's what happens here with this method.


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My current go-to method — which I consider essentially foolproof — is the method I've been using for the past couple of years. Technically, it's identical to the last method, except that the final sewing is done from the second side without the requirement to stitch in the ditch.

how to attach bias binding
Step 1 & 2 are done on the back side of whatever you're binding...

The binding is completely unfolded and one raw edge is aligned with the raw edge of the item being bound. (Note: this should be the back side of whatever is being bound.)

It's then sewn down at just under 1/2" (3/8" or 1cm again). 

how to attach bias binding
Step 3...

The binding is then refolded and wrapped around to the other side; i.e., the right side. (I've found that the bias binding usually takes on a life of its own and "knows" what to do here. There's actually not a lot of need to use clips to hold it in place.) 

how to attach bias binding
The edge stitch from the front method... (this is my Quilted Hanging File Organizer)

Finish by edgestitching the binding in place. This technique may not produce the perfect finish that the previous method might — provided one is perfect at stitching in the ditch (which I am not) — but it generally produces very good results. And  there won't be any issue with the binding not being sewn down at any point.

Do you have a go-to method of binding that you prefer?

'Til next...

Saturday, 20 June 2020

My Second Quilt Block — Kindred Kitchen

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
A peek at my Kindred Kitchen quilt block...
Having made my first quilt block ever and having enjoyed it to a certain extent— though not to the extent of actually wanting to make the whole quilt — I decided to make another block, slap it on the back and have a reversible mini quilt.

Even though I don't typically use an apron — and therefore would never think of sewing one for myself — this quilt block spoke to me.

One of the things that I've been doing more of during our current transition to a different normal is baking and cooking new things; i.e., spending time in the kitchen. It's a bit odd, since I can't say that I really enjoy the process of cooking/baking, but it's hard to argue with finding enjoyment in the results

Therefore, what better theme for a pandemic mini quilt — for me — than one that focuses on sewing time and kitchen time? (By the way, does that sound weird for a 21st century woman to say?)

Here is what the block looks like, completed to spec.

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Completed Kindred Kitchen quilt block...

I used the same fabrics as I did for the Sew On & Sew On block, only this time, I didn't have to cover up my spirographing fabric. It worked out kinda well for the apron ruffles.

This was harder to do than the sewing machine block, due to the corner piecing that screams "look at me!" when not perfectly lined up. For a first effort, I'm okay with the result, warts and all.


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I added a couple of things to the apron: some trim in the form of the ribbon around the edge of the pocket, which hides the end of a spoon that's meant to be sticking out of said pocket.

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Added some ribbon trim and a mixing spoon...

Because I added a couple of strips above and below my sewing machine block, I had to add the same to the sides of this block to make them fit together, back to back.

FQS Snapshots Quilt Blocks crafted by eSheep Designs
Both completed blocks side by side...

I didn't do a lot of quilting on this block, just this bit above the bodice of the apron...

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Close up of the quilting and hand stitching above the bodice of the apron...

... and some free motion squiggles all over the apron itself.

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Close up of the "free motion" quilting on the main body of the apron...

My white background fabric is textured already, so doesn't really need anything done to it. I did add a line of zigzag stitching on both sides, though, and also hand quilted around the perimeter where the eye chart fabric meets the plain white background.

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Grey zig-zag stitching added along both sides...

Before clipping the ribbon around the edge, I squared up the two blocks and then zigzag stitched the edges together to reduce the bulk.

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Wrapped with ribbon as binding...

Then I hand basted the ribbon around the edge. Ribbon is not like regular binding and behaves better if you baste it before sewing. (For other examples of using ribbon as binding, check out my past posts here.)

FQS Snapshots Sew On & Sew On Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Binding temporarily basted on...

I've been a lot more relaxed about hand sewing these days. No reason to rush anything and I can take it with me outside to sit in the sunshine. Even something as unpleasant as ripping out stitches is so much more enjoyable when it can be done outside in nice weather.


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My sewing machine was running on a needle that badly needed to be replaced, so I changed to a new one just before sewing the ribbon binding. Made a world of difference. (Do you sometimes delay too long in changing out a needle? Guilty here.)

FQS Snapshots Kindred Kitchen Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
It's done! (Notice the little flower pin that I put on the waistband?)

I don't know yet if I will put this quilt under glass like I did with my first mini quilt. After binding, this finished out at 13.75" x 16"; not a typical size for which you can find a ready made frame.

For the fact that it's meant to be displayed on both sides, I'll probably just put some clips on it and hang it as is.

FQS Snapshots Sew On & Sew On Quilt Block crafted by eSheep Designs
Also done!

This turned out to be a highly satisfying project, one that I'm sure to remember in the coming years as to why I chose it. Quite representative of what I was looking for as a way to mark the pandemic. If you've never quilted before, it's an ideal way to stick your toe in the water and create something meaningful and tangible without going whole hog.

image courtesy of Fat Quarter Shop Jolly Jabberblog...

The other blocks are a cake, a tea kettle, a dog, a sundae, a hot air balloon, a bike, a cat, a car carrying a surfboard, a sailboat, and a picnic basket with wine glass. Instructions run from two pages (the sailboat) to seven pages (the kettle and the bike), to give you a rough idea of difficulty.




They have been described as intermediate level blocks, but all of them also have short videos via YouTube, so I wouldn't let that stop you if you've never done this before. If you take your time cutting, labeling and reading, the sewing part isn't that hard.

image courtesy of Fat Quarter Shop Jolly Jabber blog...

Oh, one final observation. If you wondered about the name of this quilt, the back features a camera block ("snapshots", right?) that I have also saved to my future projects folder.

'Til next...




Saturday, 1 April 2023

Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
No, it's not an April Fool's joke; I'm remaking it!
In my second "bucket list" post, I indicated that I wanted to make another one of my crossbody sling bags before retiring this blog.

It became apparent to me when we flipped over into a new year that I'd have to to make that bag sooner rather than later, plans for this blog notwithstanding. The ribbon and fabric pieced front flap had begun to separate along a seam, adding to the general signs of wear and tear that have become more and more noticeable to me.

Given that I've been using it almost exclusively since July 2020, it's actually held up well. (Avoiding future separating ribbon problems will be a priority, however, on the new bag.) On an unrelated note, it's surprising how well I've adapted to carrying so little with me.




eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
Actual sewing doesn't take long...
Since offering up the pattern free to all comers in August 2020, it's a mystery to me how many times it's been downloaded. (Because the file is just stored on Google Drive, there's no default way to track access.) However, an enhanced version of the pattern — enhanced with construction photos; still no actual "tutorial style" instruction — was also being sold in my Makerist shop for a few dollars and I do know how many sales I've had there. The number is not insignificant and yet I've never seen anyone's actual finished bag. [Edit March 2026: With the closure of Makerist, the paid version of this pattern is now available in my shop, along with a photo of the bag made up in denim by a customer!)

Perhaps it's more of a challenge than I anticipated? Could be. (I'll admit that I had to get help from my past self for this redo.) But then there are pattern hoarders out there just as there are fabric hoarders. The number of people who have attempted the project is likely quite a bit smaller than the number who have downloaded/purchased it.

By way of a yardstick, apart from testers' efforts, I've only ever seen people's renditions of my MyTie, Hot Hues, Crafty Cosmetics Caddy, MIY and Wave Purse Organizer projects; nothing else.

To that end, I thought that as long as I was making another one, why not take photos along the way? Perhaps with that extra bit of help, my chances of seeing someone else's crossbody sling bag will increase.

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
A more subdued version than the first...

The fabrics used for this new bag are my own creations from Spoonflower. The main one is Untangle My Zen (Micro) in a lightweight cotton twill; the binding is Spirogr*phing in petal signature cotton. (Check out the origin story behind the zen fabric here; it was one of my favourite creative experiences.)

The lining is — just as with my original bag — a thin black ripstop nylon. I complained about the crinkling noise after I made the first bag and can now confirm that it does go away with use. But now I'm crinkling again!

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
Back view... can you see the two lower pockets?

Given the opportunity of new construction, I decided to add two pockets to the back of the bag. The first one is just a piece of ribbon at the top, underneath where the swivel hook is installed. The cart coin that hangs there often falls off (the coin itself; the obvious problem being that the holder is not tight enough), so this pocket should alleviate that issue while I'm carrying the bag.

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
Mini pocket to keep my cart coin in place!

The section of ribbon is only sewn down along its bottom edge. During the final binding of the bag, the sides are secured. (Kinda like adding a pocket to a bag gusset.)

Ironic point to make about this pocket, having now used this bag for over a month. I actually lost my cart coin recently! I think the token itself was the problem; I've since replaced it with a loonie (Canadian dollar coin) and it fits much more tightly in the holder.


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I am still masking up when grocery shopping (among the five to ten percent who do, but I've managed to avoid getting Covid and still don't want it) so this back slip pocket is where I store my mask. My grocery list has also occupied that same space up to now. With the opportunity for some reimagining, a new patch pocket was created for the back.

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
The main slip pocket in the back...

It wasn't deliberately fussy cut, but when it came time to place it, the pocket fit perfectly on top of an identical section of fabric, in a position that was also more or less centered. How serendipitous!

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
A serendipitously matched up pocket!

The fabric for this additional pocket was left over from the original fat quarter, so with this remake, I can confirm that a single (wide width; the cotton twill FQ is 18" x 29") fat quarter with a non-directional print — that's important, as this fabric has been used both right side up and upside down here — should suffice for the exterior of the bag.

Erk... why do I have straight binding??
On a side note, I'm not sure what happened with my supply of binding. Usually a regular (18" x 22") fat quarter will produce more than enough continuous binding, but something happened between the fall of 2020 and the near spring of 2023 in terms of the type and amount of binding that was in my project bag. (I actually made the binding some time ago.)

Always one to confirm whether or not there's enough of whatever before going forward with a project, I did the basic "lay the binding around the parts that are to be bound" and discovered that I had just enough.

That was a bit weird, considering I thought I should have more than enough. But that wasn't the most serious of my problems. Just before finishing off the flap pocket, I realized that one of the two sections of binding was straight; i.e., not cut on the bias.

Straight bound corner
Straight binding is not a substitute for bias!

In hindsight, I could have opted to bind the flap pocket in a different fabric altogether, but in that moment, a decision was made to make do. The corners would certainly wind up with a wrinkle or two, but since the print on both fabrics is so "busy", it likely wouldn't be obvious in the final finish.

As of this writing, I still don't know what happened to my supply of binding. I have a vague memory of having gone into that project bag to take some, but without doing an extensive search through my blog archives or my sewing room, I can't think of what it might have been used for prior to this... or why I ended up with some straight binding.


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Anyhoo.

Here is the interior of the flap pocket. You can see my almost origami card holder inside. I still keep my "older than old" cellphone in there.

The first day that I used this new bag, I realized that I'd reversed the direction of the two zippers. It felt slightly odd, but after a few days, I got used to it.

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
View inside flap pocket...

The next photo is of the main interior compartment. (You'll clearly notice in this photo that I forgot to account for the fact that when you split up a section of fabric to put a zipper in between, a diagonal pattern — in this case, the piece of ribbon — no longer has the illusion of continuing smoothly. D'oh!)

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
Main compartment...

To address the ribbon problem of the original bag, this one was directly sewn on top of the fabric. I also glued it first. Of course, all of this generally prevented me from easily fixing the off-centered-ness of the diagonal trim. (For those of you wanting to create the illusion of a smooth break, do not sew the ribbon all the way to the top corner of the underlying fabric. Stop at the point where the piece is marked to be cut for the zipper. After the bottom half of the zipper is attached, move the remaining ribbon segment to the left — a 1/2" or so; depends on the width of your zipper and how closely you sew it — before stitching it down onto the other piece of fabric.)

I was somewhat surprised by how much I needed to refer back to my "instructions" (such as they were) in the first couple of days. That was the main reason I decided to take apart the old bag after I started cutting fabric for this one.

Not only did it give me the chance to reuse certain components...

eSheep Designs' Crossbody Sling Bag 2.0
Does this look familiar?

... it also acted as a refresher course on how to make the bag!

If you've been stumped by this project and would like some additional help, I suggest you come back in a couple of weeks for the dismantling of my original bag.

'Til next...

Saturday, 8 June 2019

Quasi-Tutorial: Passport & Travel Document Keeper

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
The travel accessory you didn't know you needed...
Let me start on an "administrative" note today.

Without the distribution channel and reach of Craftsy/Bluprint's pattern marketplace, creating new patterns and converting tutorials into PDFs has not been a recent priority. (None of my tutorials from over the past half year have been PDF'd.)

But on that topic, I recently updated my older tutorial posts to include links to pre-existing PDFs that had been missing from either Bluprint or Makerist. The good news is that they can now be accessed directly from my shop.

The PDF Pattern Shop link at the top of this blog is your gateway to all of my downloads.

With that out of the way, today's post is a quasi-tutorial for my Passport & Travel Document Keeper, an essential — in my humble opinion — accessory for anyone traveling by air these days.

An all-in-one organizer that's a great gift idea for any world traveller...

It's your solution for the mad airport dash, where you're running from place to place and at each stop, someone wants to see your passport and boarding pass. This organizer secures your boarding pass in a clear pocket while holding your passport open at the right page. Zippered and slip pockets provide storage for whatever other travel documents you may have.


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Materials Required


You'll need fabric, interfacing, clear vinyl, grosgrain ribbon (for durability), and a zipper for this project (apart from other basic sewing notions).

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
I used two different ribbons for my projects;
5/8" for the interior binding and 7/8" for the exterior...
Fabric (quilting cotton weight):
  • 1 x Main Exterior, 11.5" wide x 9.25" high (29cm x 23.5cm)
  • 1 x Lining, 10.5" wide x 9.25" high (27cm x 23.5cm)
  • 1 x Zippered Pocket Lining, 8.5" wide x 9" high (21.5cm x 23cm)
Fusible interfacing (Pellon Decor Bond or SF101 or equivalent):
  • 1 x Main Exterior, 10.5" x 9.25" (27cm x 23.5cm)
  • 1 x Lining, 9.5" x 9.25" (24cm x 23.5cm)
Clear vinyl*:
  • 1 x Boarding Pass Pocket, 2.75" x 9.25" (7cm x 23.5cm)
  • 1 x Angled Passport Pocket, 5" x 5" (13cm x 13cm)
Grosgrain ribbon (7/8" wide, about 1.5 metre/yard total length):
  • 1 x Passport Holder Strip, 9.25" long (23.5cm)
  • 1 x Boarding Pass Pocket Binding, 9.25" long (23.5cm)
  • 1 x Angled Passport Pocket Binding, approximately 12" long (30cm)
  • 1 x Main Binding, approximately 22" long (56cm) 
8" (20cm) zipper
matching thread

* NOTE: A light weight vinyl will do for this project. I recommend checking out a dollar or discount store for a clear vinyl table cloth.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Two ways to hold your passport...

Cut & Interface


Cut required fabric and interfacing. Fuse interfacing to the Main Exterior and Lining pieces.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of main fabric pieces...

Note that the interfacing pieces have been sized slightly smaller to keep them out of the seam allowance.

Set aside the fabric for the Zippered Pocket Lining for now.

Prep Vinyl and Bind


Trim the square piece of vinyl to make the angled pocket. (Since it's difficult to take a picture of clear vinyl by itself, here is a shot of the two pocket pieces after they have been bound with the ribbon.)

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Trim away some of the vinyl to create the angled pocket...

What you should end up with (from the original 5" x 5" square) is a piece that measures 2.5" high on the short side, 5" high on the long side and 5" wide along the bottom.

Measure and cut the three short lengths of ribbon. (Set aside the one meant for the Passport Holder Strip for now.)

Use clips to wrap the ribbon around one of the long edges of the Boarding Pass Pocket and around the two edges of the Angled Passport Pocket as shown above.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Mitre the corner as best as you can...

Carefully sew the ribbon onto the vinyl, mitering the corner of the angled pocket as you go.

Install Passport Holder Strip


Take the Main Exterior and Lining pieces and pin them right sides together along one of the shorter edges. (Note that the lining is smaller than the exterior piece.)

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Pin one edge of the lining and exterior together...

Sew with a 1/2" (12mm) seam allowance.

Fold right side out and press so that 1/4" (6mm) of the exterior fabric shows along the edge.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Part of the exterior fabric is designed to wrap around to the lining side...

Unfold the two layers of fabric and keep the exterior right side up in front of you, with the lining off to the left.

Position the Passport Holder Strip on the exterior fabric, 1.25" (32mm) away from the pressed edge that you just created. Pin at both ends.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs

Now get your passport and place it underneath the ribbon, centered from top to bottom. Use additional pins to mark the top and bottom edges of the passport. This will be where the strip is left open to allow the passport to slide in.

Note that most countries' passports are the same size, but thickness will differ depending on how many pages are inside.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Sew an open box to secure each end of the ribbon...

Sew the top and bottom of the ribbon to the exterior piece as shown.

Install Zippered Pocket


Place the Zippered Pocket Lining piece right side down on top of the exterior piece that now has the Passport Holder Strip attached.

The top of the Zippered Pocket Lining should overhang the pressed edge of the exterior piece by 1/2".

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Place and prepare zippered pocket lining...

Draw a zipper placement box so that its top edge is 1" away from the top edge of the lining. (This being a quasi tutorial, I am not going to explain the whole concept of what a "zipper placement box" is.)

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Sew along dashed black line; cut along solid red line...

Sew all around the outside of this box (where indicated by the dashed black line). Then cut along the middle line and the angled lines into the corners (where indicated by the solid red line.)

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Sew in the zipper...

Push the pocket lining through to the other side, press, and then install the zipper.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Close up the pocket...

Finish the pocket by bringing the bottom up to meet the top edge and then sewing it closed along the three sides.

Finish Main Body


With the zippered pocket and passport holder strip done, it's time to sew up the other side.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Sew up the remaining side...

Flip the unit so that the wrong sides are out and pin together the remaining short ends. (Remember, the lining is shorter than the exterior, so this will seem uneven.) Sew with a 1/2" (12mm) seam allowance and then turn right side out.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Stitch in the ditch to finish the edges...

If all has gone well, there should be a 1/4" of the exterior fabric also showing along this new edge. Stitch in the ditch along both edges (as shown by black arrows above).

Fold in half evenly and press well.


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Attach Vinyl Pockets & Outside Binding


Open up the folder and place it exterior side up as shown.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Baste vinyl pockets in place where shown by black dashed lines...

Use clips to position the two vinyl pockets. Baste the boarding pass pocket close to the top and bottom edges.

Baste the angled passport pocket along the bottom edge and then sew down the bound side — following the existing stitching line — to secure it to the back piece.

Re-fold the unit when you're done, ensuring that everything is still even.

Passport & Travel Document Keeper by eSheep Designs
Start binding at one open corner...

Take your remaining length of ribbon and bind the unit from one open corner to the other. Leave at least 1/2" (12mm) of ribbon free at the beginning and tuck it in between the two layers of the slip pocket; use a clip to secure. (Check out the photo below from my tablet envelope project to see what I mean.)

Create a clean finish by tucking
ribbon ends between two layers...
Continue binding (wrapping) all the way around, clipping as you go. (If you need some help creating mitred corners, check out my wet wipe tissue wallet tutorial.)

Leave the same 1/2" length at the end to push between the layers of the open slip pocket. Once you sew down the binding, the two corners will be nicely finished with no raw edges showing.

[In my original post about this project, I showed how some adhesive velcro dots can be used to keep two of these organizers together. Check it out if you want to do the same.]

Enjoy your passport and travel document keeper!

With Father's Day coming up, maybe this is an appropriate gift for a globe-trotting dad? Or — do you have a student in your life who is graduating and planning a trip abroad? (I never did that, but it seems to be the trend these days.) Maybe send him or her off with this sure-to-be-appreciated handmade gift.