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Saturday, 30 October 2021

What's the Best Way to Attach Bias Binding?

Best Way to Attach Bias Binding
What's your preferred method of binding?
In my previous life as a sewer of clothing (from my teens to early twenties), I don't recall ever being required to attach binding to anything.

Therefore, my first experience with binding was when I made that controversial multi-zip organizer in 2015. Because the PDF was abso-fricken-lutely no help at all in terms of how to sew the binding, I had to look online for a similar project and ultimately did what was done for whatever it was that I found.

I eventually incorporated that same technique when I created my own pattern for sale.

But guess what? I don't do it that way any more. Why? It's not quite foolproof.




What is foolproof? Well, in my humble opinion, the way I now do it is fairly foolproof. But before I go there, let me illustrate a couple of not so foolproof methods of attaching binding. (Bias or otherwise; the former is required when you are binding something with curves. By the way, in all my examples here, I am referring to 1/2" double folded bias binding or tape.)

First, there's the "cheater" method.

how to attach bias binding
"Cheater" method of attaching binding... (this is my Travel Toiletry Tote)

The idea here is to wrap the unfinished edge without unfolding the (double folded) binding and then just sew around once. 

how to attach bias binding
While you can sew along one side nicely, the other side may be a bit "off"...

While this eliminates the step of going around a second time, the result won't be the best, particularly if what you're binding is thick. 

using ribbon as binding
Cheater method using ribbon as binding... (this is my Tablet Envelope)

That said, if you use this technique with ribbon like I've done above, it can work out fairly well.


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The second method is what I did with my own multi-zip organizer projects.

With the binding completely unfolded, one raw edge is lined up with the raw edge of whatever it is being bound. (Note: this should be the front side of whatever is being bound.)

how to attach bias binding
Common step 1 for attaching bias binding...

The binding is then sewn at just under a half inch (I like to use 3/8" or 1cm).

how to attach bias binding
Common step 2 for attaching bias binding...

The remainder of the binding is then refolded and wrapped around to the other side and secured. 

how to attach bias binding
Common step 3 for attaching bias binding...

The sewing part, however, is done from the original (right) side, stitching in the ditch.

how to attach bias binding
The "stitch in the ditch from the front" method...

If you're very good at this, this method does produce a tidy finish. If you're just moderately good, you may occasionally experience this on the opposite side...

how to attach bias binding
The other side of the binding may not always be secured with this method...
(this is my Tea Cozy)

Having part of your binding not sewn down is hardly optimal, but you can't control what you can't see and that's what happens here with this method.


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My current go-to method — which I consider essentially foolproof — is the method I've been using for the past couple of years. Technically, it's identical to the last method, except that the final sewing is done from the second side without the requirement to stitch in the ditch.

how to attach bias binding
Step 1 & 2 are done on the back side of whatever you're binding...

The binding is completely unfolded and one raw edge is aligned with the raw edge of the item being bound. (Note: this should be the back side of whatever is being bound.)

It's then sewn down at just under 1/2" (3/8" or 1cm again). 

how to attach bias binding
Step 3...

The binding is then refolded and wrapped around to the other side; i.e., the right side. (I've found that the bias binding usually takes on a life of its own and "knows" what to do here. There's actually not a lot of need to use clips to hold it in place.) 

how to attach bias binding
The edge stitch from the front method... (this is my Quilted Hanging File Organizer)

Finish by edgestitching the binding in place. This technique may not produce the perfect finish that the previous method might — provided one is perfect at stitching in the ditch (which I am not) — but it generally produces very good results. And  there won't be any issue with the binding not being sewn down at any point.

Do you have a go-to method of binding that you prefer?

'Til next...

7 comments:

  1. Yikes!
    First, your bias binding method makes perfect sense to me. I'm not a fan of stitch in the ditch. (Especially bad as a clothing finish.) I see sewing the first seam to the front first is a "quilting" thing, when you usually hand stitch the back of the binding. But your method is an improvement when you're machine sewing the final stitching on accessories.
    Secondly... the yikes part. I have one of those controversial multi zipped thingies all cut out and interfaced, sitting neatly in a tray, waiting patiently to be sewn. I must have been stymied by the instructions, as I usually complete projects. I'll have to get on that and see what help is available online now. And using your about-faced binding method!
    I've also been thinking about your question: What's the best thing you've ever sewn? Usually the latest successful project, whether 'accessory' or clothing. But I'm still mulling it over!

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    1. Glad to hear that my preferred method of binding is a good one. It has certainly left me a lot less stressed out about binding something since I discovered it.

      I had stronger words than "yikes" when I opened up the PDF for that "multi-zipped thingie that will go unnamed". It simply must be the worst written pattern that ended up being wildly popular. Don't worry, there are now all sorts of video tutorials for similar things out there that will light the way... conquer it; don't let it conquer you!

      And if you ever decide on your "best thing", I would love to see it.

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  2. Greetings Rochelle, I love all the pics with each method! I have avoided sewing bias bindings but lately my method is to unfold the tape, iron flat and fold in half. then I sew the raw edges of tape and fabric item together on the wrong side, then fold over to the right side and sew along the folded tape edge! This is fool proof for any thickness of edge to be covered because the seam allowance can be adjusted with the first sewing of raw edges. Thanks for your weekly inspiration!

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    1. And thank you so much for adding the method that I had previous thought about — but that I had never done — that had slipped my mind! You're right, it's a good foolproof way as well.

      P.S. Is Blue Violet Creations your own enterprise or are you one of several partners?

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    2. Blue Violet Creations is all mine, the website was a Mother’s Day present from my son💝 many years ago.

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    3. Sweet! I wish you all the best with it.

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  3. I guess I am old school, I do binding the quilter way of sewing by machine and folding to the back and hand stitching in place. I just have issues getting the binding to look good on both sides and so I guess I stick with this method becuase I know how to do it and it works for me, even though it t more time.

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