|
|
My new free motion quilting presser foot... |
Over the past few years, however, I've become gradually more intrigued by the
idea of learning how to do some loop de loop (and other forms of) free motion quilting. I've
given FMQ a go using my regular equipment, but my efforts have usually been
confined to very broad stippling, since it's not easy to make small controlled
movements using said "regular equipment".
Therefore, it was time to look into purchasing an additional sewing machine
foot... one specifically for free motion quilting. (Apparently it's also
commonly known as a "darning foot".)
I found this one on Amazon last summer and had it on my list for some time before we accumulated enough of an order to qualify for free shipping. It's from a shop called Stormshopping and cost me a penny under ten bucks. It's classified as a universal, closed toe, low shank, offset free motion quilting presser foot.
So what does all of that mean?
Watch live classes for FREE at CreativeLive!
[affiliate link]
This ensures that you have a good view of where you're quilting from.
These can be made of plastic or metal. I don't know about one being better than the other since I have heard about metal ones breaking unexpectedly too.
Check out crafty classes at Creativebug!
[affiliate link]
Back in September when Craftsy turned Bluprint turned Craftsy again offered free access to everything, I downloaded the supporting materials from two of their FMQ classes, Free Motion Quilting Essentials (Christina Cameli) and Free Motion Quilting with Lines, Curves and Loops (Debby Brown).
'Til next...
|
| Closed toe, low shank model... |
Well, universal means that it will fit a wide range of sewing
machines including
Singer, Brother, Babylock, Euro-Pro, Janome, Kenmore, White, Juki, New
Home, Simplicity, Elna
and more.
The closed toe (versus open toe, of course)
specification refers to the fact that the foot itself — the open area that
the needle works in — is totally enclosed. Here's an example of an open toe
version of this same foot:
|
|
open toe model image courtesy of Stormshopping... |
Given that the open toe version gives you greater visibility, I can't tell
you why I opted for a closed toe foot. The only advantage that I've come
across is that the closed toe version won't get caught up in lace or
appliques that might be on the surface of what you're quilting... maybe
that's why. (Really, I found this in the summer, put it in my wish list and
then just automatically ordered it in November without considering it any further.)
|
|
graphic courtesy of Stormshopping... |
The low shank part of the description refers to the height
from your needle plate to the the thumb screw of your sewing machine
presser feet. The graphic above will help you determine whether your
particular model sewing machine needs a low or high shank foot.
Finally, offset refers to the fact that the stem (the leg?) of
this presser foot is not directly behind the foot itself, but off the right.
|
| Offset meaning that the stem is off to the side... |
This ensures that you have a good view of where you're quilting from.
|
| This one is made out of metal... |
These can be made of plastic or metal. I don't know about one being better than the other since I have heard about metal ones breaking unexpectedly too.
Back in September when Craftsy turned Bluprint turned Craftsy again offered free access to everything, I downloaded the supporting materials from two of their FMQ classes, Free Motion Quilting Essentials (Christina Cameli) and Free Motion Quilting with Lines, Curves and Loops (Debby Brown).
|
| Sample FMQ exercise courtesy of Christina Cameli on Craftsy... |
Armed with exercises, I thought about the best way to approach the practicing part of this endeavour.
My first challenge was to get used to sewing without the feed dogs directing my stitches. I put a sheet of paper over some fleece and used just a bare needle (i.e., no thread) to test my control. The results aren't pretty, but I imagine that this isn't something that a person is automatically good at from the start.
 |
| These stitch lengths are not even! |
I'm determined to keep practicing though, so look for an update at some point. In the meantime, does anyone have any advice to share?
'Til next...
Interesting topic! I've also been interested in FMQ. I do like a good stipple. And I keep looking at the matchstick (line) quilting. (I can't figure out how they "hit" being lined up correctly with the seams - as well as the lines in between being evenly spaced. If that makes sense to you.)
ReplyDeleteI'll be looking for your readers' comments!
Lodi don’t stress about your matchstick quilting lining up with your seam lines. They never will and once it is all quilted you won’t even notice it. I took a class on Craftsy by Jackie Gehrig that was fabulous. I will try and send you an Amazon link to her book which I think would be great for you if you are so inclined. https://www.amazon.com/WALK-Master-Machine-Quilting-Walking/dp/1940655218
DeleteRochelle I am not an expert quilter (believe me!😬) but some things I have heard are have a glass of wine before so you are relaxed and it will flow better. Take your time and practice practice practice. Also having quilting gloves on are a must for me. You have sooo much more control of your fabric when you use them! Sometimes I forget to put them on and I wonder why I am struggling. They really help!
Sally
Thank you, Sally, for your tips. I do intend to practice, practice, practice. The thing about the wine may not apply to me so much (not much of a drinker) but I do get that one has to be in the right mindset to let things flow when it comes to quilting. (And I'll put quilting gloves on my "nice to have" list!)
DeleteThanks for contributing to the conversation. :-)
Thanks Sally, I have patchwork made for a jacket, so I appreciate your advice! (I might start on the back that I won't see haha.) I'm off to check out the book!
ReplyDeleteFrom what I understand, matchstick quilting is done with lines that are about an eighth of an inch apart. My regular straight stitch foot would give me an accurate guide for that along one side, but apparently a "patch work foot" would also be helpful in keeping the lines accurately spaced.
DeleteAs for your description of how to stay evenly spaced and yet still hit the seams (and yes, that did make sense to me!), my strategy would be to start at the seams and then move inwards to the middle. As you get to the last several lines, you could probably start varying the widths slightly. But as Sally says, maybe that's just not a concern!
Actually, as I think about how normal quilting is done, that advice to start at the seams and work towards the middle likely wouldn't produce a good result. Nix that!
DeleteWorking from the middle does seem to make sense.
ReplyDeleteMy other concern is what happens on the 'underside'- that side you can't see while machine stitching 😱. I once made a pillow top and the backside/underside had wobbles in it. OK for the inside of a pillow, but not so nice on an actual quilt. Hence... the many fears and challenges of machine quilting!
Which is one of the (many) reasons why I don't have any interest in tackling an actual full size quilt. Aside from the other tips, I did read that it's extra important to ensure that your layers are well basted together (glue? spray?) when doing matchstick quilting. I can imagine that if they were to shift, you might get wonky results on the underside.
DeleteI have a similar free motion foot as the one you got Rochelle. That little notch can and does get caught on thread or safety pins, so be careful. I also have an open toe version which makes quilting easier to see, but if you approach something like lace, just turn your quilt so that the open toe (or the notch) is not heading straight for it, so it doesn't get caught. Free motion quilting is a balance of machine speed versus moving the quilt speed. Too slow and stitches are large, too fast and they are tiny. It's like driving a car and knowing how to keep a consistent speed. It does take practice. Gloves are a must for me too. You can use a clean pair of garden gloves with some kind of grip on them or buy quilting gloves or use those sponges that you used before (that was you right?). Practice on scraps sandwiched together and check your bobbin stitching after a short while. This is where things happen that you cannot see. You may need to adjust your tension if you see the top or bobbin thread showing where it shouldn't, so for this reason, practice your FMQ with one color as your top thread and a different color in the bobbin. That way you will see if your thread tension is correct. Don't pull on the quilt as you quilt, your hands should be just lightly holding it in place and then you need to adjust the quilt and reposition it often as you quilt. Once you get into a rhythm, it becomes easier. You can just doodle for now. Quilting your name is good practice as it allows you to move in various directions. If you want to quilt a particular design you are told to draw it on a paper with a pencil and not lift your pencil up. Then that helps to commit that to memory as you do the same with quilting. Keep us informed of your progress. Happy quilting (without too many swear words), lol!!!
ReplyDelete